| 1. The only RTV I used around the seal area was on the seal cap where it contacts the valve cover for the exhaust. The intake valve cover has a gasket. As Grimm mentioned I used motor oil in the ID of the seals. 2. I have installed two different brands of 3" down oipes. One set went in without any issues and the other set required me to unbolt the steering linkage until the engine was in place and then replaced the linkage. The first set was 4 bolt and the second set was 5 bolt so not sure if that matters. 3. I would recommend putting break-in lube on the cam lobes since you have new lifters. Also did you submerge your lifters in an oil bath to purge the air? That is what I did but not sure if it is absolutely necessary. Just curious are they OEM lifters or after market? The cams want to come to rest at the point of less pressure so they will rotate very easily and quickly. As Grimm mentioned he has the best method, but in my particular case I was able to align without any issues. 4. Already covered by Grimm Advise recommendations requested: I would check the CAS drive pin as sometimes they wear.. I don't know where your budget is but since you are replacing the brake and clutch cylinders I would upgrade to the stainless steel lines. I noticed better feeling pedals after the swap, I also recommend synthetic fluids. Most important is your hose clamp placement where you can make adjustments as you mentioned without having to pull the engine! Especially the new hoses will require adjustment after they have been in service. For future mods or service I would also recommend the plenum vacuum water and vacuum line deletes. If you do it now it will make your life easier down the road. There are several write ups available on this site. Good luck with your project and I am sure there will be several others with more experience than me that will provide good input. Cheers
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15:50:45 06/26/14
